Philippines Yearbook 2008: Baler, Aurora

This is an intro to the article I did for the Philippines Yearbook 2008 whose theme for the year is Travel and Adventure. Filled with informative activities throughout this awesome archipelago, supported by excellent photography from some of the country's best, the book as a whole is an excellent addition to any bookshelf. It makes a great gift as well.

This article has photos of Jeff dela Torre, Django Mendoza and Corey Wills.


Apocalypse Wow: Baler, Aurora
Text by: Kage Gozun
Photos: Ivan Sarenas and Kage Gozun

Baler is the capital of the province of Aurora. The political and economic center of this historic province has long called to those drawn by the call of the wild.

The journey truly begins at the foot of the Sierra Madre mountain range. Driving along its cliffside roads is breath taking for two reasons: the overgrown foilage makes for spectacular scenery and the deep ravines a few feet away from the edge
of the road makes for some nervous driving.

The drive is well worth it. The town is as rich in history as the mountains are in giant ferns and vibrant trumpet flowers.

In 1735, a wave struck this town and completely eradicated it. The destruction it left in its wake, and the fact that nearby areas where left virtually intact has become the stuff of legend. Slowly, the surviving inhabitants began to rebuild the town, first known as Kinagunasan. By the later 1730s, Spanish clergy had set up shop. To this day, there is evidence to the strong ties Baler has with its Spanish roots. Among them are the annual Filipino-Spanish Friendship Day and the presence of the Baler Catholic Church, where Spanish troops held the American soldiers at bay during the later 1800s. The town that had once been wiped off the face of the earth by a freak wave fell under American rule in 1900.

It was the existence of waves that drew another historical figure to the town of Baler. Back in the late 70's, Francis Ford Copolla himself set up shop along one of Baler's rivermouths and shot key scenes to his hit film Apocalypse Now. Among these scenes was the infamous surfing sequence along Charlie's Point. The film wrapped up, Copolla flew out with his wife in tow and the crew left behind the first surfboards ever to be used in Baler.


For the rest of this, please go out and get yourself a copy of the yearbook. National Bookstore retails the yearbook for around Php1,800.

Philippines Yearbook 2008: San Juan, La Union

This is an intro to the article I did for the Philippines Yearbook 2008 whose theme for the year is Travel and Adventure. Filled with informative activities throughout this awesome archipelago, supported by excellent photography from some of the country's best, the book as a whole is an excellent addition to any bookshelf. It makes a great gift as well.

LONGBOARDING IN LA UNION
Text and photos: Kage Gozun

San Juan, La Union is in the Ilocos Region. La Union itself is considered to be one of the gateway provinces that connect Southern Luzon to the Northern provinces. It is bordered to the north by Ilocos Sur and to the south by Pangasinan. Its eastern border is Benguent province and to the west is the South China Sea.

Surfing came relatively early to San Juan and in the last decade alone, a growing surf industry has been witnessed along the stretch beach in the town of Urbiztondo, San Juan, La Union. Most, if not all, of the residents living along this short strip of beach are part of the local surf community. Each household will have at least one member who surfs, teaches surfing or is a good friend of a surfer.

The laidback vibe has also attracted its fair share of foreigners, mostly of Japanese and Australian persuasion. Some have been living in town for over two decades and are considered as locals in the community.

A combination of an established surf industry and its accessibility from Manila has created one of the most tourist-friendly surf spots in Northern Luzon. Most would-be surfers choose travel to Urbiztondo simply because of the ready availability of boards, specifically longboards, for rent and instructors for hire. Beginners hooked on the sport but have no personal boards can easily rent one for the weekend.

The influx of beginners and students has also allowed for a longboarding culture to sprout in the water. Most of the local La Union surfers are equally adept at handling longboards as well as shortboards. It is not uncommon to find an equal amount of longboards and shortboards being ridden on any given day. Longboarding is in fact more commonly seen in La Union when compared to the other breaks nearby. In fact, the local La Union surfers have sort of a reputation for dominating longboard-related competitions and contests. And come the weekend, as more Manila longboarders pour out of cars and buses, expect to see more longboards sitting outside in the line-up.

Throughout the season, surf competitions are often held for both longboarders and shortboarders. But it is the annual international longboarding contest held town at the start of year that is the longest-running. . Run by long-term foreign residents in cooperation with the La Union Surf Club, the year 2008 will mark its tenth year in existence. The event is open to all people and has attracted its fair share of loyal followers who arrive each year to join the friendly competition.

For the rest of this... you'll have to buy the book.
For the rest of this, please go out and get yourself a copy of the yearbook. National Bookstore retails the yearbook for around Php1,800. Support your local travel writers and photographers!

Philippines Yearbook 2008: El Nido

This is an intro to the article I did for the Philippines Yearbook 2008 whose theme for the year is Travel and Adventure. Filled with informative activities throughout this awesome archipelago, supported by excellent photography from some of the country's best, the book as a whole is an excellent addition to any bookshelf. It makes a great gift as well.

El Nido: The Last Stop of the Last Frontier
Text by Kage Gozun
Photos by: Erik Liongoren
Photo in blog: Kage Gozun

If Palawan is the Philippines' "Last Frontier" then its town of El Nido is the vanguard of the frontier's borders. Flora and fauna are a premium draw here as there are only five islands where development for tourism purposes is allowed.

Majestic marble cliffs stand guard over sandy shores and glassy waters. Small villages co-exist a mere boat ride away from some of the most luxurious resorts in the area. There are lagoons filled with emerald depths and endless discoveries. Explore age-old caves and learn their whispered secrets. Or simply be on the look out for the multitude of wildlife both common and rare that make their homes on this enchanted place. There are 16 endemic and 10 threatened species of birds, 6 types of marine mammals endemic, and four species of endangered turtles that call the waters and forests of El Nido home.

Celebrated author Alex Garland is said to have drawn inspiration for his bestseller "The Beach" from his stay at El Nido's Bacuit Bay. One visit to this marine reserve and you will understand why.

To Do:

Island Hopping is of course, a major portion of the activity. Within the area of Bacuit Bay alone are over fifty beaches. Many of the larger resorts offer packages that cover your boat, tour guide and a packed meal for the day. The higher-end hotels will even load a few kayaks onto your boat so you can paddle around the lagoons and explore at your own pace. Barring that, the town proper can supply you with the same. All you need to do is take a walk down the beach.

Scuba diving is a popular pastime. There are at least 30 known dive sites suited for a wide range of certifications from Open Water One to advanced qualifications. Keep your masks clear for sighting of dugong, rays and turtles. Live coral, a variety of reef fish, morays and, if you are lucky, the whale shark completes the list of marine wildlife on display. The larger resorts will sort this out for you or even offer a 15-minute intro dive as part of the package. On the mainland, look for Bacuit Divers and ask around for Willy, who has gained a good reputation from many a satisfied diver.

Make note of Paglugaban Cove for its healthy population of Gorgonian fans, table, fire and brain coral and fields of Staghorn coral. And what would this coral fiesta be without its accompanying reef fish? The rainbow of color will take your breath away.

Miniloc Island houses two hidden lagoons, the smaller of which is good for snorkeling. The larger (northern) lagoon is accessible through a quick swim along a break in the cliff.

If dry land is more to your liking, you can book guides to take you spelunking and cliff climbing. The El Nido Tour Guides Association is your best bet for assistance, especially if your resort does not have this included in your package.

Now, if packaged tours are not your thing, then hire a motorbike, get some information from the friendly locals and take off on your own adventure through the Final Frontier. The bikes are for rent at about Php800 pesos. Mountain bikes can also be rented in town.

Local lore states that during the last war, the Japanese held prisoners in a series of caverns now called Bone Cave. If this is fact or myth is still on dispute but this shouldn't hinder you from crawling through the small opening to come into the first of the caves. Tunnels lead you to other chambers, many inaccessible without a rope and a sturdy guide. A natural skylight in one of the easier-to-reach chambers sheds a soft and lovely light.

For the rest of this, please go out and get yourself a copy of the yearbook. National Bookstore retails the yearbook for around Php1,800.

Philippines Yearbook 2008: Batanes

This is an intro to the article I did for the Philippines Yearbook 2008 whose theme for the year is Travel and Adventure. Filled with informative activities throughout this awesome archipelago, supported by excellent photography from some of the country's best, the book as a whole is an excellent addition to any bookshelf. It makes a great gift as well.

BATANES: Bring your own adventure
Text: Kage Gozun
Photos: Erik Liongoren


The ten islands that make up the province of Batanes are at the northernmost tip of the Philippines. Geographically, Batanes is closer to Taiwan than it is to the northernmost tip of Luzon. The distance also explains the difference in ethnicity of the locals of Batanes, known collectively as Ivatan. Unlike most of the country whose people claim similar ethnic backgrounds to the Malays, Ivatans are closer to the Tao people of Orchid Island, Taiwan.



Nearly half of the province is made up of hills and mountains. Lush greenery tapers off to give way to stretches of sandy beaches and rocky shorelines. This topography coupled with its constant rainfall and strong winds has created a destination that is truly one-of-a-kind in the country.



Off shore, the China Sea hugs one side of the Batanes islands while the Pacific borders the other. There is a point where both oceans meet, creating a strong current that makes sea voyages in this area particularly dangerous.

This is a land where nearly every angle is a photo-op and the scenery is unlike any other Philippine destination. It is part Ireland, part Hawaii but essentially all Ivatan. The long stretches of time with near constant wind have created a people who have learned to live with the elements of nature. Ivatan houses, created originally from thick stone blocks, cogon roofing and limestone, are still used on the island of Sabtang. The islands are living museums – testaments to the rich culture and history of a province that for many decades was left to develop on its own.

Of the ten islands, only three are inhabited. The capital of the province is Basco, located on Batan island. Sabtang is a short boat ride away. The last of the inhabited islands is Itbayat.

One of the most notable facts about Batanes is their claim to a zero crime rate. Violent crime is unheard of on the islands and even petty theft is a rare occurrence. Visitors who misplace or lose personal items are told to visit the local radion station in Batan so that an island-wide bulletin can be aired. Locals who have found items are also likely to drop them off at the station. To underscore this claim, while we were visiting the town of San Vicente , Sabtang I noticed a sign posted in front of the municipal hall. It said, quite clearly, "Lost and Found: Money."

For the rest of this... you'll have to buy the book. Support your local travel writers and photographers!