Saturday, September 27, 2008

Returning to Suhoton Cove

My first time to Bucas Grande was back in '04 with Millie and Scuba. Four years later, I find that not much has changed... which is a good thing. The boat ride is still epic (6 hours of travel time total), the scenery is still insanely amazing and the water is still crystal clear. The one thing I would change -- that boat ride! Hahaha.

To truly maximize the trip, leave when the sun is just about to broach the horizon. The three hour trip to Bucas Grande gives you a tour of Guyam, Naked Island, Dako and the La Janossa area. Bring enough water, food and other supplies (beer? snacks?) for the day because there is no store at Bucas.

At Bucas Grande, there is a short orientation about the island and its environs. After that, you take a smaller boat into the first cove. So yes, be prepared to spend an additional P200 per head for the tour of the island. The boat you paid for to take you there is exactly that -- just a boat that takes you there.

There a few caves and a lot of great scenery but the true highlight of Suhoton is the Jellyfish Lagoon. Hundreds of stingless jellyfish (two species as far as I know) swim unmolested by predators in this 50 meter deep saltwater cove. The jellyfish actually still have stingers but, due to lack of competition and fear, have devolved their stingers to a point where humans no longer feel the toxins that usually cause great discomfort.

At first it does feel a tad strange to swimming towards jellyfish instead of away from them. But you get used to it in time. And the experience is truly unforgettable.

If you get there early enough, you can take your time swimming and snorkeling. Just make sure you start making your way back to Siargao before 4pm since it will take another 3 hours to get back. And you don't want to be in the open ocean when the sun goes to bed.

My personal favorite itinerary goes like this:
-leave for Suhoton at sunrise
-get there by mid-morning
-hang out until lunch/ leave at noon
-on the way back make stops at Dako for surfing (if there's swell) and Naked Island for photo ops
-head back to Siargao island just in time for dusk
-wash up and then have a full dinner washed down by a cold beer

Some photos:







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