Bali Boarding

As published in a magazine that has since folded and thus, will not be named ;)

Bali Boarding

It happens to all surfers. After x amount of time paddling familiar breaks and taking off on the same peaks, the feet begin to itch. No, it’s not a bad case of reef rash. What’s happening is a surfers’ built in need to travel and look for better waves. Or, if you happen to think your home break has the best waves, then it’s the search for different swell.

Surfers are, by nature, wandering nomads. Always in search of the perfect session, the ultimate ride. The bar for what constitutes the next best thing is raised as a surfer’s skill level increases. And the search, goes on ad infinitum. Crowded line-ups, irregular seasons, and a general wanderlust drives a surfer ever onward. Two surf movies – The Endless Summer & The Endless Summer 2 – are devoted to that very theme. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve been surfing or how good you’ve gotten, at some point, the itchy feet kick in and the search begins.

I find that this is especially true for Philippine-based surfers. We don’t have waves all year round. There comes a time during the summer months when neither Habagat nor Amihan is delivering surfable swell. And instead of drowning my sorrows in beer below zero or taking off for a hedonistic weekend at an island resort, I do the most sensible thing – I plan a trip to Bali.

Bali, Indonesia is one of the best options for surf outside of the Philippines for several reasons. It is closer to the Philippines than, say, Hawaii or Puerto Rico. Filipinos don’t need a visa to enter the country. And, best of all, Bali has waves all year-round. So when things have gone flat on this archipelago, it’s high time to set your sights on another.

The eastern side of the island receives near consistent swell. Without any other countries or islands to break up the surge of the incoming tides, Bali is a guaranteed wave magnet. If it isn’t working at one spot, it will surely be working at another. All you need is a good guidebook, access to the internet to check for swell and a few tips from the friendly surf locals.

Bali has three major seasons, each with their own pros and cons. Depending on your skill level, you can adjust your date of departure. Swell is fickle and can change in an instant but there is a general guide that you can follow.

December to February is the rainy season, although actual rainfall can fluctuate from strong windstorms to minimal downpours. The winds come in from the west side so you’ll want to be on the eastern coastline.

From March to May is when I personally prefer to book my Bali trips because swell tends to be a bit smaller. March can still be a bit wet so I like to book towards the middle to end of May. Breaks such as Keramas, Serangan, and the Bukit Peninsula can still deliver big waves so if you’re traveling with a big waver, tell him he won’t be bored by your hunt for four foot waves.

The water temperature begins to drop come June and goes on til almost November as winter swell from surrounding countries come rolling in. It’s enough to turn your lips blue if you aren’t used to it. When planning a trip for the winter season of Bali, invest in a shorty wetsuit or a thick rashguard. Winter is also when the swell begins to really pick up and breaks such as the legendary Padang Padang start cranking out double overhead waves on a good day. Not for the faint of heart or low of skill. If you don’t think taking off on a 10 foot wave is your speed, rest assured, your friendly local guide can point you out to more manageable surf. Breaks to check out:

During my last trip, which was May of 2010, I fell in love with a little visited break known as Balian. An hour and a half west of Kuta and accessible by land transport (rent a van for the most comfortable ride), Balian’s away-from-it-all vibe combined with consistently clean waves was perfect for our little band of adventurers. And despite the seemingly isolated environment, Balian’s small resorts are actually quite nice. Splurge – at these prices, you’ll still think it’s a steal – and book your self into one of the resorts that has air-conditioning (the dry season in Bali is hot beyond belief), a pool & a fully staffed kitchen.

The best part is that Balian is on the same side as Medewi, which can be friendly or ferocious depending on what Mother Nature’s mood is on any given day.

Closer to the hub of activity, Airport Lefts and Airport rights generally work during the dry season. Paddle for waves while flights take off and land meters from you. Crowd factor can be high so be prepared to fight for your waves. Balangan, less than an hour out of the city center, is also a good bet. And of course, there’s always the rest of the Bukit Peninsula with breaks lined up along the coastline – Impossibles, Padang-Padang and Uluwatu.

Mostly geared for backpacking surfers, there are definitely more basic rooms as compared to luxury lodgings that are angled for waveriders. If you want to stay away from maddening crowd of unwashed and rowdy backpackers on their gap year, ditch Kuta and head for Seminyak or Legian instead. The hotels are better appointed, the crowd more upscale and the levels of comfort more lavish. Most will also offer you cars for hire along with an English speaking tour guide who’ll know his way around the island’s many breaks. The Legian Logo, a five star hotel, is one of the most popular hotels in the area. In Seminyak, check out Le Jardin Boutique.

You can also choose to spend the night at many of the other breaks, leaving you with less time for road travel and more time to surf. And rest assures, it wont be all beach bungalows with no running water and threadbare mats on the floor. The Bukit Peninsula does offer some pretty lush accommodations . Those closer to Uluwatu, such as the Alila Villas Uluwatu , often offer stunning views from the mountainside, 3-bedroom villas &, if you book ahead, private pools. And there are a handful of privately owned villas that are stand alone and can be booked for private groups.

So grab a guidebook, go online, check out flights (Singapore Airlines flies from Manila to Bali with a brief stop at Singapore) and figure out when you’re going to to chasing after those Indo waves.

Missing Balian

Back in March of 2010, I was recovering from a bout with viral arthritis, an auto-immune illness and a break up. A trip to Bali had been booked months before and it was with a lot of excitement that I boarded that Air Asia flight to the Island of the Gods.

We split into two groups - mostly based on where we were all booked. We spent the first two days apart - constantly in touch via SMS and Facebook. One evening Dom, Annie, Wiwi, JP and Tin texted us to say they were heading to Balian in the morning. So Philip, Miki, Ja and I hooked up with Nata, rented an extra board for Jam, woke up at 5am and made the trip up.

And fell in love. If I could have married a surf spot during this trip, I'd have come home as "Mrs Balian."

We hit Balian twice all in all where we all scored fun rides, cheered for each other, had epic siestas on epic beds, ignored the annoying needle thingies in the water, stayed away from aggro haole boys (where is your aloha?!) and had the best time ever.

Jam and I weren't able to do a Balian trip this year though so my reunion with the spot I wanted to marry is going to have to wait.

For photos of my future husband, the Surf Spot, check out my gallery on Facebook.

*BALIAN is located halfway between Kuta and Medewi. There are accommodations in the area ranging from upscale to mid-priced. As of 2010, there were no backpacker-budget friendly lodges though. You can hire a van to take you there (I highly recommend Nata, hit me up for his contact deets) or rent motorbikes and make the drive up yourself. Leave early in the morning to beat the traffic.

One Day I'd Like to Do This For Pinay Surfers

Record numbers turn out for the Rip Curl Girls Go Surfing days in Bali

29 May 2011, Double Six beach Legian – Bali.

Bright sky’s and perfect 2 -3ft waves decorated Sunday morning at Double 6 beach Legian, Bali for the 2011 Rip Curl Girls Go Surfing day.

A record breaking 130 girls of all ages and nationality turned out from as far away as Malaysia and Thailand to register and join the annual Rip Curl Girls Go Surfing Day now in its 8^th year.

The day began with registration at 9.30 followed by the first class of the day ready hit the surf at 10.30. Joining the lesson were Rip Curl facebook photo competition winners from Jakarta who had won an all expenses paid trip from Jakarta by posting pictures of themselves to Rip Curl’s fan page. Girls started out with a warm-up and stretching followed by basic standing, positioning on the surfboard and how to paddle. The introduction was made by Rip Curl School of Surf Pro instructor Jonathan Deaker who made all the girls feel right at home with his relaxed and fun spirit before they took to the perfect clean waves.

While the first group was getting amongst the action on the water, the beach scene was hotting-up with fun and games to win top prizes, girls having manicures, body massages and temporary tattoos in the specially designed beauty booth.

As the third and final session of the afternoon came to a close around 3pm, live music kicked-in on the stage and the crowds of girls gathered to dance together to a hot salsa music lessons with fun choreographer and dance instructor.

A beach BBQ added to a perfect afternoon of fun and games in true Rip Curl style with hot dogs and cold drinks ready to feed the hungry girls.

To end the day on stage, the prize giving of the Coca Cola ISC Women Division Tour was announced with Rip Curl team rider Diah Rahayu Dewi taking first place starting her 2011 campaign on a high note. The presentation was followed up with some special awards for best wipe-out, best ride and best style that was won by Rip Curl’s media guest’s form Thailand and Malaysia.

“It was a great start for the women's pro tour. We had some good waves and the girls were challenged but showed that they are more than motivated and are frothing to compete. We are looking forward to a tough and challenging competition for the 2011 women’s championship.” (Tim Hain - Media Director- Coca-Cola ISC Tour)

Thanks to Rip Curl’s co - sponsors and media partners; GUS, All Seasons Legian Hotel, Rip Curl School Of Surf, Coca Cola ISC, OZ radio, JUICE, Magic Wave, Sister Girlfriend and Go girl.

Sometimes the Universe gives you a photo-op

Cross-posted on Us3Girls

I was en route to Manila from Bali via Jakarta late Friday night. Rushed to the baggage carousel as I had to grab my gear and go so I would make it to the next free shuttle service between the domestic and international terminals.

Got to the carousel and saw this:

Classic traveler moment: waiting for your bags to arrive, looking forward to a warm meal, a soft bed and some shut-eye.

Bali: Shop the Surf Outlets

I've been to Bali during the months of March, April and May and the sale season that has given us the highest yield and best value for money has been the one in March.

1. Surfers's Paradise. Oakley, Reef, Roxy, Quick Silver, Sunsuko, Cult, Volcom, Hurley, Industry, Bilo Australia. On Jalan By Pass I Gusti Ngurah Rai
-- This is on the way to the airport and accessible by taxi. Hardly any sales at the main store but right across the street is their factory outlet wc sometimes has super good deals.

2. Billabong Factory Outlet on Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai
---> Three floors of sale items ranging from 30% to 75% off on most items. It's on the same road as Surfers Paradise but in the opposite direction. Walking distance from my favorite outlet of all time -- the Quiksilver/Rip Curl/Surfer Girl. Have the taxi drop you off at that one first then just walk down the road to this one. It will be on the left side so keep your eyes open for it. Super good deals.

3. Quiksilver/Rip Curl Outlet on Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai
---> See above :) I was able to get shorts for RP50,000 and tops na RP25,000 (Php125 to Php250 pesos) and bikinis for Php500 lang.

4. Quiksilver/Rip Curl/Surfer Girl Outlet On Jl Dewi Sri
--> Closest one to the Kuta and Legian area. Usually has rummage-style sales outside the store proper and more sales inside.

5. Surfer Girl. On Jl Legian.
--> Head for the sales floor upstairs for the best deals on both men's and women's brands. Also, it's along one of the main shopping-eating roads

Bali Tips: Money

These are just a few reminders and tips that I've picked up from the various trips to Bali in the last four years. Generally, my advice will center on the Kuta and Legian area so if you're looking for info on Seminyak, Nusa Dua, the Bukit etc, this might not be the blog for you.

- Many of the money changers will offer a higher rate than others (lets say normal is 8635, they'll over 8900). Unless you are super confident about your own counting skills, dont be greedy. Go for the normal rate na lang at a reputable changer rather than the dodgy money changer operating out of the back of a dvd store. ;)

- Along Poppies Lane (coming from beach side) 1 at the very top of the street near the head office of Big Kahuna Surf School. They issue receipts and I trust them.

-Another reputable money changer is DIRGAHAYU Money Changer sa corner ng Legian Street and JL Pantai. Bank-style siya. They also issue receipts.

In general, we tried to change USD$100 at a time.

Other money related notes:
-- do not bring US Dollar bills minted in 1996!
-- do not bring US Dollar bills minted in 2003 with serial numbers beginning in CB
Those bills will be rejected by almost all the money changers in Bali. Even the banks.

Helpful Link: http://www.baliblog.com/travel-tips/bali-travel/money-in-bali.html

Teh Botol = Bali

Snapped this one afternoon while waiting for the rest of the crew to come up from a surf session at Kuta. Now let me explain why this bottle of sweetend jasmine tea encapsulates our Bali experience:

- A brand new taste of something familiar
- Refreshing
- Surprisingly affordable
- Addicting
- Something to tell your friends back home about

Teh Botol = Bali.

The End

Bali 2007: From Kuta to Uluwatu

Landed in Jakarta well past midnight and spent the rest of the night at the house of Aya's tita (we slept girls in one room, boys in the other). Breakfast was thin slices of proscuito and heaping spoonfuls of nasi goreng. Then... off to Bali!

Arrived in the Island of the Gods after lunch and spent the first day getting settled in. Moro, JP and I were booked at Taman Ayu Bungalos -- really cheap place with clean rooms, comfortable beds, and a super friendly staff. I found out about Taman Ayu through Denver, who stayed there last year and made friends with one of the staff... this super nice local named Juli. Juli is the best.

Aya, Phil and Terence stayed down the street at Masa Inn. We heard about this place naman through Paolo and Cat (later backed up by Vince and Andrew). Value for money. Really great digs for a price you wont find in the Pinas.

Across Masa Inn is a restaurant called Nusa Indah. Yummy food at really low prices. Most of our meals were eaten here. Most of our Bintangs downed right after those meals. We made friends with one of the waiters pa. Komang (I know, whattaname!) became our command central... "Hey Komang, did you see Phil and Aya?" and he'd go "Yes, they just ate and went back to Masa Inn". Really convenient.

Oh... I took everyone to Legian Street the first night and introduced them to the Surfer Girl and Quiksilver store there. Third floor = sales floor. Little did any of us know that this was going to be a very small portion of what our shopping was going to be like. Hehe.

Surfing happened the second day. COLD water. So cold that after a while our fingers were going numb and our toes felt like they were going to fall off. But, since the swell had dropped off, we at least managed to have a fun session. I got long rides and got to practice my turning. Timing lang cos a lot of the waves were closing out and the sections that were consistently working were filled with locals we didnt wanna hassle.

Ano pa ba? Ah, Moro scored a board! He sold his 6'3 before we left for Bali so we were on a mission to find a a good deal on another board while we were there. The Kuta area is awash with surf shops so it took us a while to make a decision and to wrangle a good price. But on the third day of our stay, we made a choice - a 6'0 pintail Barreira board.

After we found our bearings, we decided to stick around the Kuta beach area for a few days, braving the cold water and the often close out waves. I made friends with some local instructors and they picked waves for me to take. Nothing great but deffo long fun rides. By this time, we'd all developed a taste for Teh Botol, a locally bottled tea drink. And we were starting to make friends with the vendors on the beach... getting discounts on our Teh Botols and Bintangs... and earning a safe place for us to leave our bags while we all surfed. (Most of the hangin' and surfin' Kuta pics are with Terence).

Moro and I took an afternoon off to head up to Uluwatu. We rented a motorbike (Rp80,000 with insurance for two days), asked Juli to draw us a map and took off. Ulu was small that day - small for typical Indo standards. As it was, waves were head high, peeling and perfect. We watched the line up at Ulu and this cool guy taking off on double overhead waves with his paddleboard at Temples. Then up to the temple itself to catch the sunset... and lose sunnies to a cunning macaque.

Terence joined us in the motorbike brigade the next day and we went off in search of... sales! Hahahaha. Really chill day lang using the bike, surfing a bit and then checking out Joe's Place for the first time. Think Big Sky but chiller pa.

Next up! Ubud and the Monkey Wars!

Interview: Anggun

A phone interview and a very generous editor at Pulp magazine = one of the best interviews I have ever had the chance to conduct. It's interviews like this that make me miss the days when I did a lot of freelance work covering the music scene. I'm replubishing this PULP piece here because... well... cos I can. ;)

ANGGUN
Circa: 2002

The Indonesian orchid continues to bloom in France. If there is anything we’ve learned about Anggun it is this – she is intensely private. Even after releasing “Snow on the Sahara”, her first English language album, she continues to live behind a perfumed cloud of mystery. Ask her about her thoughts on music and she will talk for hours. Anything about her private life however, is taboo. At best, she is candid about her prized possession – a pillow she calls a “guling” that travels with her wherever she goes. But that hasn’t kept anyone from trying to breach her censor board.

Three years later, the release of Chrysalis and a phone call from France gives us another chance.

Kage: Hi.
Anggun: Hello. Sorry if I sound like I am talking with my nose. I catch a cold. I am not used to wearing turtlenecks and clothes for cold weather. I like to wear sandals. Things like that. I am Asian!

Kage : Do you feel the need to be a representative of Asian artists?
Anggun: No actually but whether I like it or not, I will be. The fact is there aren’t a lot of Asian artists in the European and American scene. I try to do my best but I don’t want to be alone in the scene anymore. Coco Lee is starting but you can still count on one hand who has. Lea Salonga with Broadway. But that is like a different kind of music too.

Kage: In what way is this new album different from the last one?
Anggun: Musically I think, technically speaking, it has less world music. You know how on Snow on the Sahara I had a lot of Indonesian instruments? In Chrysalis, I toned down the ethnic part. I don’t want to give a reason that just because I’m Indonesian that I have to put Indonesian music. It’s still very Indonesian since I wrote every song. The ideas, the point of view… I’m Indonesian so I don’t think we have to underline that again by putting the music. Now it is a subtle approach.


Kage : Do you find that taking your time to record makes for better quality albums?
Anggun: Well it gives me more satisfaction. I don’t know about quality. That’s subjective. I like to take my time. No rush. I like to make sure that everything is in place. I have to be 1000% (yes a thousand, not a hundred) convinced that it is good. My name is on it. I am the artist. So if it is not good then it reflects on me.

Kage : What was it like to co-write all the songs in Chrysalis?
Anggun: I like that I have artistic control. I am my best enemy and harshest critic. Which is bad in a sense because I am never satisfied. Then again, an artist is never satisfied. (It is) Good motivation to push yourself. I like being unsatisfied.

Kage : With music or in general?
Anggun: In general but mostly music. When you are unsatisfied you keep reaching for more.

Kage: Why the title?
Anggun: I like the idea of a creature inside a chrysalis. That you do not know what is inside. Maybe it will be a red and blue butterfly. Maybe a yellow one. I like the idea of how this creature starts as a worm then in the chrysalis, it becomes a butterfly. I like the before rather than after. The mystery. If you don’t believe in reincarnation at least believe in this… the transformation, becoming something else.

Kage : Are you transforming?
Anggun: I can see myself evolving, transforming. You should feed yourself with different experiences to make yourself more aware. Travel to different places. Be open to new experiences. I know that I have not done a lot or seen a lot so I have a long way to go. But I am aware of that.

Kage : Were there songs that didn’t make it to the album?
Anggun: A lot. I don’t know if I will use them for something else. Or put them in another album. For me writing songs is like freezing time. This is what happened to me at this time. A snapshot. For me, it has to be personal. I want to make sure that I deliver the right emotion. That the message gets through. But that doesn’t mean that I wont be able to sing past songs with the same emotion because I went through the experience and I recorded the song already. But I cant put an old song to a new album.

Kage : Does the need to sell your music dilute its quality? In other words, do you think about the commercial aspect when you are recording?
Anggun: I don’t actually but my producer does. Show & business. I deal with the show part, they deal with the business. It is teamwork. The good part is knowing that you have a good team with you. It’s a good start.

Kage: Is life easier now that you’ve successfully broken into the international scene or is life more complicated?
Anggun: Not complicated. Just less and less time for myself. But this is something that has been my life. I grew up doing shows, traveling, having interviews. I like that. This is my life. Whenever I am on tour, I give and I receive so much from the public so I don’t feel tired. It’s dangerous to your health if you aren’t careful. Oh excuse me.

(A dog starts to bark in the background. Anggun comes back after saying something I don’t understand.)

Anggun: That was my dog.

Kage: What kind of dog is she?
Anggun: A german sheperd. She doesn’t like other dogs but she likes people.

Kage: Do you speak to her in Indonesian or French?
Anggun: She was trained here so I speak to her in French if I want her to understand me. When I play with her, I speak in Indonesian. Baby talk.

Kage: You’ve been likened to Annie Lenox and Sade… any thoughts on that?
Anggun: I think that it’s a huge compliment. I think that its normal that at the beginning people tend to compare you to other artists because it takes such an effort to be recognized for yourself at the start. But yes, it is a huge compliment to be compared to them. They are artists that I really respect. I love Sade.

Kage: What risks have you taken lately?
Anggun: Changing teams. Willingness to work with new people. Breaking the security of the past.

Kage: What was the last cd you bought for yourself?
Anggun: I bought an album by this band called Clawfinger. It’s a Swedish rock band. A good album. I like to discover new things. There is this Italian band that is amazing. Quinto Rigo It’s a traditional quartet that does rock. Amazing but they are not very popular outside Italy. Maybe it is not commercial enough. But does it have to be like that? Good music is not measured in how many albums you make.

Kage: What question have you always wanted to be asked but never have? That way I can ask it now and we’ll both be happy.
Anggun: Are you in love?

Kage: But that’s a personal question and we know how you don’t like to be asked personal questions.
Anggun (laughs): That is true. But people ask me if I have a boyfriend or if I am married. But never if I am in love.

Kage: So, are you in love?
Anggun: Yes, I am.

Kage: And that’s all you are going to give me right?
Anggun (laughs) : Yes. Right.

Kage : At least give us this, do you still travel with your “guling”?
Anggun (laughs): Yes actually and its embarrassing because the people in my band make fun of me because it is so big. I have it right here right now.

** The interview ends here but we actually stayed on the phone just a little more to talk about men and love and the evils of shopping and self-esteem. Anggun is a wonderful human being and such an inspiration.